Build your Blinkenhub kit

The Blinkenhub kit includes all the internal parts. You print the stand on your own 3D printer, fit the parts inside, and end up with the same stand, hub, and lights as an assembled Blinkenhub, in any color you like.

What’s in the kit

• USB hub board
• Flexible LED strip
• Thread forming screws
• Instructions for downloading the 3D models for the stand, ready to print

What you’ll need

• A Mac mini (November 2024 and later)
• An FDM 3D printer (we us a Prusa Core One L at Blinkenhub HQ)
• Clear PETG filament for the bottom
• PETG filament in your color choice for the duct
• Filament (PLA recommended) in your color choice for the base
• A T-15 Torx driver
• A T-7 Torx driver
• A (preferably short) USB-C cable capable of at least High-Speed (480 Mbps) data transfers and able to deliver power at 1.5A.

Instructions

1. Download the 3D models

   The stand is printed as three parts. Using the instructions included in the kit, download and unzip the model files:

   Part	File
   Base	Blinkenhub V2 (RB PCB) Base.step
   Bottom	Blinkenhub V2 (RB PCB) Bottom.step
   Duct	Blinkenhub V2 (RB PCB) Duct.step

   A complete assembly, Blinkenhub V2 (RB PCB).step, is also included for reference. You don’t need to print it.

   Most current slicers, including PrusaSlicer, Bambu Studio, and OrcaSlicer, open STEP files directly.

2. Print the parts

   Print the Base, Bottom, and Duct.

   Part	Orientation	Supports	Notes
   Base	Flat side down	Required	PLA recommended
   Bottom	Flat side down	None	Clear PETG
   Duct	Flat side down	None	Not PLA

   The Bottom and the Duct can be printed with almost any settings. Neither part is highly visible, and neither has any tight tolerances. Speed, or even draft, printing is probably fine. Both parts are oriented with the large flat surface on the build plate and neither requries any supports.

   The Base is the more challenging part to print. Printer settings are more critical because the part is visible when your Mac is sitting on it. You’ll want to choose a material and print settings that produce a nice appearance. PLA is highly recommended because it works well with the narrow back of the base.

   Printing the Base will require supports in several places. The models do not include support material, it is added by the slicer. You will probably have to experiment a bit with print settings to get the best results from the printer, material and slicer you’re using.

   

   Once the parts have been printed, carefully remove any support material and set them aside.

3. Prepare your workspace

   Arrange all of the components of the kit, including the 3D printed parts, the screws, the hub board, and the LED strip on your work bench for assembly.

   

4. Plug in the LED strip

   Removed the hub board from its antistatic bag and plug in the LED strip, being careful to observe the correct orientation of the connector.

   

5. Install the USB hub board

   Using a T-7 Torx driver, attach the hub board face down to the bottom using with the small screws in the corners.

   

6. Fit the LED strip

   Starting at the far end (away from the wires and connector) seat the flexible LED strip in the gap between the posts and the rail that runs around the inside of the bottom. Try to position the LEDs between the posts, although you may have to shift them a little to accomodate solder joints in the strip.

   If you have trouble seating the LED strip, make sure that your print didn’t somehow bridge the gap between the posts and the rail.

   

7. Tuck in the wires

   Work your way around to the connector end of the LED strip. Tuck in the wires to ensure that they don’t interfere with the base.

   

8. Position the duct

   With the base upside down (legs up) slide the duct in upside down until its back is even with the back edge of the base. The holes in the flat part of the duct should align with the mounting posts in the base.

   

   

9. Close up the stand

   Place the bottom of the stand upside down into the base. Using the large screws and a T-15 Torx driver, attach the bttom to the base.

   

   

10. Connect it to your Mac

    Set your Mac mini on top of the stand. Connect the stand to the Mac with a single cable, which powers both the hub and the lights. With your Mac on, after a few seconds you should see a rotating rainbow pattern from the LEDs.

    

    

11. Test the lights

    Install the blinkenhub Python package. It includes a blinkenhub utility for trying out the lights:

    pip install blinkenhub

    Then use the disco blinkenhub command to test the communications path to the stand. Unlike the other commands, disco animates the Blinkenhub in real time from the host.

    blinkenhub disco

    Once you’re satisfied things are working, quit with ctrl-C.

    Use the rainbow command to return the Blinkenhub to a rotaing rainbow, like it does by default when first powered on. This command delegates the animation to the stand and will return immediately.

    blinkenhub rainbow -v 0.5 -r 10

    All 17 LEDs should light in a rainbow that slowly spins around the stand. -v sets the brightness and -r the spin rate.

Next steps

Your Blinkenhub is ready. See what the API can do to set your own colors and animations from software on your Mac.